doug
New Member
Posts: 7 
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Post by doug on Mar 6, 2014 0:26:42 GMT -5
My car has the driveshaft mounted parking brake. Recently I noticed a whump-whump-whump noise coming from the rear, noticable over exhaust noise only when slowing down (off the throttle). The frequency of the "whumps" seems proportional to wheel speed. I confirmed it was coming from the parking brake mechanism by removing the caliper. No caliper, no noise. Also, the rear pad on the caliper is worn much more than the front one. Looking for suggestions as to what might be causing this, and does anyone know how to adjust this brake properly? Thanks!
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Post by varmit on Mar 6, 2014 9:38:01 GMT -5
mine needs adjusting as well,, waiting for someone in the know on this.
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blas
New Member
Posts: 2
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Post by blas on Mar 6, 2014 18:07:26 GMT -5
Check the bolts on your driveshaft first. I can email you a procedure, but you will need to get new pads first. No one will probably have them available. You need to find a local brake pad shop that can put a new pad on your existing backing plates.Maybe call Dennis Olthoff, he had replacements made up not to long ago as I recall.
Blas
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doug
New Member
Posts: 7
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Post by doug on Mar 6, 2014 21:24:55 GMT -5
Drive shaft bolts are tight (90 ft-lb) and the pads are new. Any other ideas?
Thanks.
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Post by Buddyg - Forum Founder on Mar 10, 2014 15:59:04 GMT -5
My two previous Cobra's the parking brake didn't work worth a crap. Is this normal?
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Post by sideways on Mar 28, 2014 23:59:45 GMT -5
Installing new parking pads on SPF
The Procedure:.
1. Remove the nut from the end of the parking brake rod, and slide the rod forward.
2. Next remove the three nuts from the bottom plate of the parking brake assembly and remove that plate.
3. Remove the top middle nut from the upper plate, this will allow the upper plate to be removed along with the adjustment screw still in place.
4. Now that all that stuff is out of the way remove the four large bolts that run through the universal joint, brake rotor assembly. Pull the drive shaft towards the transmission and then rotate the brake rotor upward out of the way.
5. Remove the old pads, replace with new ones and reverse the procedure for reassembly.
Good luck the four large bolts are a pain to get off and put back on.
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doug
New Member
Posts: 7
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Post by doug on Apr 2, 2014 17:01:39 GMT -5
Sideways,
On my car, it's not necessary to remove the brake rotor (your step 4) in order to change the pads. Just remove the 10mm nut from the actuation rod and the two 12mm bolts that attach the caliper assembly to the front of the differential (support the diff with a jack or jack stand!), and the caliper will fall off in your lap. Then to the work bench to disassemble as needed to get the pads out. Re-installation is equally simple.
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Post by gtbill on Apr 9, 2014 8:45:20 GMT -5
Hey Blas,
Is there an "old" and a "new" e-brake system?
My Car is 2479
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blas
New Member
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Post by blas on Apr 9, 2014 16:49:18 GMT -5
Yes, original was the Wilwood Spot brake, then the driveshaft add-on style, and the current design which is back on the wheel. Of all three factory versions, a big rock is still the safest and best overall solution. But the latest version of the parking brake is the best of the three versions.
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Post by mudhenk27 on Apr 10, 2014 6:38:53 GMT -5
a big rock is still the safest and best overall solution I love that comment, Blas...gave me a big grin :-) Bill |
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Post by gtbill on Apr 18, 2014 9:25:41 GMT -5
Big Rock
$65K ++ and a Big Rock for an E-Brake !!!!
Good thing these Snakes are incredible to drive.
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Post by retired on May 25, 2014 20:56:17 GMT -5
Blas: What is the proper adjusting approach for the latest series parking brake?
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Foz
New Member
Posts: 14
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Post by Foz on Jul 18, 2014 5:33:03 GMT -5
Mine is useless as well Buddy.
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Post by maggystan1 on Nov 9, 2017 4:43:28 GMT -5
I've similarly included how I raise a car from the back. In short this one is pressed for a group of workers that I trust your search support all the same just replacing the correct this brake properly.
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